8.16.12 Thursday night in London
8.16.12 Thursday night in London
Another extraordinary day of walking, looking, listening, being amazed.
Hardly slept last night, but got up 7am to drink pot of coffee and talk to Leo. Took long, hot wakeup shower, then out to meet Stephen at Muswell Hill. Lunch at the once-Mozart Cafe. He drove to Hampstead Heath via the Highgate adjacent cemetery (Karl Marx, you'll have to wait this year), found parking in narrow lane and we walked miles over the heath in sudden sunshine, through copses and woods and past one pond after another, down muddy pathways to see the swimming ponds, one for men, one for women that looked like something out of a DH Lawrence novel, women bathing amidst trees, scattered women, woman and woman, each one looking like some genteel Hampstead author in water, on meadows. I had no idea the Heath held such secrets. Rolling hills, unexpected glimpses of London mistily 4 miles away between hills and trees, delightful clouds, birds of many descriptions and water fowl, quiet men and women walking, sitting on the grass, staring, thinking, and then more meadows, ponds, wild hedges and blackberry bushes and enormous trees, each of which Stephen knew as individuals and about which he was passionately possessive.
Talked about Airbnb; he told me to write up the stories I hear from the guests. Two hours talking
non-stop.
The only shadows in the magical afternoon were when I asked if he had been to Banias and he retorted, "I've shot at people there," adding that it wasn't Israel, it was conquered land, at which I retorted, "We're not giving it back," when he stopped himself and we fell silent for a minute, and then as he dropped me off when I asked if he was going to Elizabeth's 'Adelman' tea party for Lily on Sunday at which he became very disturbed because neither Liz nor his mother had told him about it. Oh dear, these dark holes. You can fall through them at any age.
He dropped me off at the Tube and I arrived at Waterloo Station, fighting my way through hordes of festive and rowdy families all the way to an even more deafening and dazzling fairground that the South Embankment has become, found Leo and Regina at Au Bon Pain, found Julian at the National Theatre, and found my tickets at the BO where the helpful man I'd spoken to from LA had upgraded our seats to mid stalls for only $1 more than the original ones in the Circle! At that I came out of my shadows and the four of us sat (and I later rented an earpiece that made a huge difference for me) enjoying the (rather ridiculous on the whole) Shaw - The Doctor's Dilemma - which was brilliantly acted and produced, funny, moving, thought provoking here and there and very enjoyable.
When we left, along the Embankment, we saw the city lit up on both sides with lights of all colors, neon, flashers, beams, lit up buildings, projected icons, a wealth of London old and very new, the slender hanging carousel with riders screaming for joy and terror, the enormous Eye rounding slowly, the bridges lit up like fireworks. Julian took his train and Leo, Regina and I walked then bussed back to 48 Portland Place, where we rounded off the evening as usual with a snack and a small glass of red wine.